By the way, if you haven’t read How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 1; How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 2; How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 3; How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 4; and How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 5, you might find the answers you’re looking for.

Problem: My toilet only runs once every few days or so, and when I flush it, the running stops.

Solution: Sounds like the chain gets stuck in the flapper every once in a while. Make sure there isn’t any excess slack in the chain that connects the toilet handle to the flapper.

Problem: My toilet is running so much that I’m afraid it’s running up my water bill, and I can’t fix it right away.

Solution: If you can’t get your toilet fixed in the near future, consider shutting off the water supply valve located near the toilet. If there isn’t any water running to the toilet, it can’t run in the toilet! Of course, remember to turn the valve back on when you need to use the toilet!

Problem: I’ve tried everything and even replaced some or all of my toilet’s parts, but it keeps running.

Solution: If you still can’t track down the cause of your running toilet, it might be time to take more extreme measures, such as calling a professional plumber or even replacing the toilet all together.

If you haven’t read the first four parts of this series, take a moment and do so, as they address some of the most common problems. Here are the links:

• How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 1
• How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 2
• How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 3
• How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 4

But if you still can’t figure out why your toilet is running, check out this simple diagnostic test. It’s an almost fail-proof way to test a toilet flapper, but only when you’ve ruled out the possibilities discussed in earlier sections.

Step Nine: Put Food Coloring Into The Toilet Tank.

Use enough to change the water’s color, but don’t use so much that it stains anything. Once you’ve done that, let your toilet sit for an hour or so (and don’t use it!), then examine the toilet bowl. If you notice a hint of color, there’s a good chance your flapper is leaking.

(Note: Plumbing stores often carry a special dye for this purpose, and it is priced relatively cheap, but food coloring usually works just as well and costs much less.)

You’re probably asking, “If the flapper is leaking, why didn’t I notice it earlier?” Sometimes the leak is so subtle that you won’t feel it at all with your hand. But the fact that the water from the tank ended up in the bowl (after you’ve ruled out other possibilities) is almost a tell-tale sign that the flapper is leaky.

If you’ve got a leaking toilet flapper, replace it! It’s an extremely easy fix and the shouldn’t cost a do-it-yourself plumber more than a couple of dollar in parts. And since flappers are almost always the culprit of running toilets, it might be worth your time to change it out even if you DON’T think it’s the problem.

Still can’t put an end to your running toilet blues? Read Part 6.

If you haven’t done so, you might want to read How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 1; How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 2 and How to Fix A Running Toilet, Part 3. Some of the most common problems are addressed in those sections. But if you’ve read them all and are still beating your head against a wall, keep reading.

Step Six: Examine The Toilet Overflow Tube.

The Overflow Tube is the long, hollow, tower-looking pipe that stands up vertically within the toilet tank, usually located in the middle of the tank. It’s designed as a fail safe device that prevents the tank from overflowing with water if something goes wrong. Actually, if your toilet is constantly running you should be thankful for this little tube, as it’s what’s sending that excess water down to the bowl rather than over the top of the tank lid.

Take a look at the tube. Is the water level high enough so that it’s overflowing into it? If so, the toilet mechanical systems are malfunctioning and not stopping the water supply!

If the water level isn’t near the over flow tube, you can skip ahead to How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 5. Otherwise, read on!

Step Seven: Test The Toilet Fill Valve.

Before attempting this next step, check the toilet float and float arm assembly again (it’s discussed in How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 3).

If the toilet float and float are are working properly, there’s a good chance the fill valve is leaky or has failed. The Fill Valve is another vertical, tower-like mechanical piece that refills the tank after/during a flush. It’s easy to identify because the float is attached to it.

If the Fill Valve fails, the it won’t shut off the water supply. Fortunately there’s a very easy way to test this.

Start by shutting the off the water supply to the toilet, which is usually controlled by an easily accessible valve along the toilet’s water supply line. With the water supply shut off, flush the toilet. You’ll notice that once the water left the tank, it never refilled. That’s good – that’s what we want.

Step Eight: Examine The Toilet Fill Valve.

This next step requires both hands, but it isn’t tricky. With one hand, raise the float to it’s highest position. With the other, open up the water supply valve outside of the toilet. It’s important to keep the float at it’s highest position because it tricks the toilet fill valve into thinking the tank is full.

Now, examine the toilet fill valve. There shouldn’t be any water coming out of it at all. If there is, you’ve got a leaky toilet fill valve. These are simple and inexpensive to replace.

Go ahead and let the float drop after you’re done examining. It will fill the toilet tank back up with water so you can use the toilet again.

Still can’t find the problem? Click on over to Part 5.

If you haven’t read How To Fix a Running Toilet, Part 1 and How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 2, take a minute and do so. Those sections cover some of the most common problems. But if they don’t address your situation, read on!

Step Four: Examine the Float.

The float is the big buoyant ’thing’ that floats on top of the tank’s water supply. As the water level lowers, it triggers a mechanism to let more water into the tank. Once the water level reaches its highest point, the float (and its mechanism) shut the water supply off.

Sometimes the float gets damaged and doesn’t float on the surface of the water. Because it doesn’t reach its highest point, it never tells the other mechanisms to stop the flow of water. Examine the float both visually and by hand. Look and feel for any cracks or leaks, and also determine if the float is empty. It should be nearly as light as a feather when it’s water tight, but if water has crept in it will become heavier.

Step Five: Examine the Float Arm.

The float arm is simply a long rod (usually metal) that joins the float to the other mechanical parts of the toilet. It’s rare, but sometimes the arm gets bent out of shape. If you’ve examined the float and found that it is water tight, it’s possible that a bent arm is the culprit.

Grab the float and gently raise it. If it successfully shuts the water off, you’ve found the problem! Check to see if the arm is adjustable. If it is, shape the arm so that the water shuts off once the float reaches the highest water level (not so high that water flows over the overflow tube). Some arms are adjustable and some aren’t, so don’t press your luck if your isn’t – simply buy a new float and arm at a local hardware or department store. They are cheap (usually only a couple of bucks).

Not the float? Let’s address some other possibilities in Part 4.

If you haven’t read How To Fix A Running Toilet, Part 1 yet, it’s worth a look. It explains just how costly an unfixed running toilet can be. Read Part 1 here.

Step One: Jiggle the handle.

This might seem basic, but don’t underestimate how many times this solves the problem. Granted this is usually just a quick fix and merely a case of fixing the symptom rather than the problem, there are cases when a toilet will randomly run even if every part is in perfect working order.

If this solves the problem, congrats! But keep a mental note of the toilet’s performance. Even though perfectly fine toilets will randomly run here and there, frequent running is likely a sign of a further problem.

Step Two: Check the tank.

Take the lid off the toilet tank and take a look inside. Sometimes debris of some sort is preventing the flapper from completely closing. This is a common problem for those who use in-tank toilet cleaning products that gradually disintegrate over time. These have a tendency to move around, and sometimes end up causing problems with the flapper.

Sometimes excess slack in the chain can interfere with the flapper valve, too.

Even if the flapper appears to be properly seated, give it a quick ‘feel test.’ With the valve down, run your finger along the flapper seal (in a circular motion). While doing this, pay attention to any areas that seem to be leaking. You should feel a small vacuum effect as your finger covers up a leaky spot.

Step Three: Flush the toilet.

Give the toilet a quick flush. Watch the flapper – does it open completely? If not, its hinge might have worn out. Check the opening, is any debris present? If so, remove it. Even if there isn’t enough water in the tank for a complete flush, opening the flapper often reveals many easy fixes.

No dice? Continue on to Part 3.

What causes a toilet to run?

The tell-tale sound of a running toilet is created by running water. We’ll address more details later as we troubleshoot, but any number of parts could malfunction, thus causing the toilet to continuously take in water.

A running toilet wastes money.

Because water is continuously running through a running toilet, it can strain your water bill. The exact amount of water wasted through a running toilet varies depending on the severity of the malfunction, but even the smallest leak can send at least tens of gallons of water down the drain per hour. Regardless of where you live, water costs money – be it a city water bill or a higher electric bill (if you have a well and pump).

To make matters worse, most municipalities base sewer fees on the amount of water your residence uses. Which means your sewer bill could increase as well.

How much does it cost to fix a running toilet?

It varies. If the fix doesn’t require new parts, it’s free – assuming you fix it yourself, of course! Even if some new parts are required, it shouldn’t cost much. Internal toilet parts are typically inexpensive and available at nearly any hardware or department store. And by doing the work yourself, you’ll avoid paying a professional plumber.

Considering the costs associated with a running toilet – not to mention the nuisance of the continous sound – new parts usually pay for themselves in a matter days! Think about it this way: fixing a running toilet is literally an investment that pays off immediately.

Ready to get started? Continue to Part 2.

If you haven’t done so, read How To Plunge a Toilet, Part 1, How To Plunge a Toilet, Part 2 and How To Plunge a Toilet, Part 3. You might find the answers you’re looking for.

PROBLEM: My toilet plunging efforts aren’t working.

Solution: Keep trying. If you’re using a good toilet plunger and have a good seal between the plunger and the toilet bowl, it’s usually just a matter of time before the clog either breaks up or is pushed through the toilet’s drainage system. Sometimes clogs break up after one or two solid plunges, but sometimes it takes considerable effort. How considerable? You might measure your plunging time by minutes rather than plunges.

PROBLEM: It’s still not working.

Solution: Go back through the basics. Make sure you’re using a good quality plunger with a toilet bowl flange, and go evaluate your technique. Reread How To Plunge a Toilet, Part 1, How To Plunge a Toilet, Part 2 and How To Plunge a Toilet, Part 3.

Give yourself a rest if you need it, then try again.

STILL NOT WORKING? Perhaps it’s time to take more drastic measures, such as chemicals, a pipe snake tool or even a professional plumbing service.

If you haven’t read How To Plunge a Toilet, Part 1 or How to Plunge a Toilet, Part 2, you should. Following those tips will make your plunging experience that much better. Read Part 1 here and Part 2 here.

PROBLEM: The water is about to overflow!

Solution: Push the flapper valve down. The flapper valve is located at the very bottom of the toilet tank, and stops the water flow when it is lying flat against the tank. When this valve is open, or standing up, it sends water into the bowl. 

You’re going to get your hands wet, so be prepared – but it’s better to deal with the relatively clean water in the tank than the filthy water in the bowl.

Your other option is to manually raise the float assembly. It’s easy to spot, it’s just a rod joining the float (which, as its name implies, floats along the surface of the tank water) to the rest of the toilet’s mechanical parts. This assembly usually runs long-wise across the tank. Just grab it and lift. Doing this makes the toilet think its tank is full, and stops filling with water. Be warned, though, that if the valve is still open, water will continue running into the bowl.

This is why it’s a good idea to follow all the preparation steps outlined in How To Plunge a Toilet, Part 1. Otherwise you’ll be scrambling to get a heavy porcelain tank lid off while dirty water spills over the toilet bowl rim.

PROBLEM: Water is sloshing everywhere!

Solution: Slow down. Sloshing water is often the result of plunging too fast. Think of plunging a toilet like playing golf, whereas technique is more important that speed. Solid, forceful plunges from a good plunger create a powerful clog-busting force, more so than rapid plunges.

Even so, you’re bound to get a little bit of slosh. But if you’ve slowed your pace and the water is still sloshing excessively, there’s a good chance you don’t have a good seal created between the plunger and the bowl. Instead of blasting the clog with a dynamic hydraulic force, the water is leaking past the plunger and creating tidal waves at the surface.

Make sure you’re using a good toilet plunger with an extended flange, and double check that you’ve created a good seal between the plunger and the mouth of the bowl. For more information, refer to How To Plunge a Toilet, Part 1.

STILL NOT WORKING? More problems addressed in Part 4.

If you haven’t read How To Plunge a Toilet, Part 1 yet, you should. It could save you lots of frustration throughout the plunging process. Read Part 1 here.

STEP FOUR: Proper plunger placement.

Creating a good seal along the toilet bowl is key to a successful plunge. Make sure you’ve got the plunger’s flange inserted all the way into the toilet bowl’s flushway and maintain solid contact between the bottom of the plunger and the bowl. 

Depending on the toilet bowl’s contents, it’s not always possible to see what you’re doing. In such case you’ll have to work by feel. The good news is that it’s extremely easy to find the sweet spot with the toilet plunger flange, even in the worst visibility conditions.

Also worth noting: This may seem obvious, but take care when first inserting the plunger into the toilet bowl, especially one that’s over full. Toilets have a tendency to splash easily, and the goal is to keep the dirty toilet water in the toilet, not on the floor (or worse, on you!).

STEP FIVE: Power plunging.

Now that you’ve got a solid seal established between the plunger and the toilet bowl, it’s time to start having some toilet plunging fun. For the first plunge, slowly shove the plunger handle down towards the mouth of the toilet. This gets the air out of the plunger, as evident by the rising bubbles – and by doing this slowly, the contents of the toilet are less likely to bubble over the rim.

Now you’re ready to attack the clog. Using a forceful motion, drive the handle of the plunger towards the mouth of the toilet. Allow the plunger to regain its original shape, then repeat.

Try to use controlled motions. The goal is to avoid splashing dirty toilet water everywhere.

You’ll probably do this several times before the clog breaks up. You might even feel a slight suction. This is a good sign, it means the clog is moving through the toilet’s drain system (and creating a vacuum force along the way).

You might also notice a change in sounds. When shallow-sounding “Swishes” turn into deeper “Swooshes,” it’s a sign that the clog is moving through.

STEP SIX: Flushing through.

If the water level in the toilet bowl was abnormally high (and not draining at all), you probably won’t need to flush until the clog passes through. But in the event that the water level drops below the normal water mark, you’ll need to flush.

Why? Because toilet plungers work by either forcing water towards the clog (down stroke) or by pulling the clog back towards the bowl via a water vacuum (up stroke). Since water doesn’t compress like air does, the plunger actually creates very powerful dynamic forces… but only when completely submerged. If the water level is insufficient, the plunger will push air instead, which produces a much weaker force.

EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED: Dealing with Plunging Problems, continue to Part 3.

Let’s get straight to the point. You’re probably only reading this page for one reason: you’ve got a plugged up toilet in need of a good plunging. So let’s get right to it.

Step One: Access the situation.

How full is the toilet bowl? If the water is near the top, you’re likely going to end up with a mess on the floor. Though we’ll do our best to avoid this as we go along, it’s best to be prepared now. Grab what you can to soak up any accidental spillage, such as a mop or some old towels. Keep in mind the kind of water that you’ll likely be dealing with, and choose your materials accordingly.

Step Two: Take the top off the tank.

Removing the tank lid grants you access to the toilet’s mechanical parts, which will prove invaluable if/when you need to shut the water supply off in a hurry (i.e. when the bowl is about to over flow). This step isn’t always necessary, but I’d rather err on the side of caution. It’s a lot easier to do this now than later, especially when you’re racing against a rising tide.

Step Three: Get your plunger ready.

If you have one, go get it. If you don’t have one, now is the time to buy one. For the greatest plunging power, choose one specifically designed for toilets. Look for a plunger with a flange designed to fit into the bottom of the bowl.

Generally speaking, it’s best to stay away from the ‘traditional’ bell-shaped plungers without a flange. Those work best for sinks and other flat surface drains; but offer minimal plunging power in a toilet.

Now You’re Ready to Plunge, continue to Part 2.